I have several videos based on the subject of where to put your piano. But now I’m going to address specifically putting a piano in a basement. The issue is about the extremes of temperature and humidity the piano may be subjected to. This is a concern with pianos going anywhere. Pianos thrive in a stable environment of around 45-50% humidity. Minimal changes of temperature or humidity are ideal. It’s best to treat the room. Basements provide special challenges. The good news is that basements can be somewhat stable in terms of temperature because of the geothermal effect.

However, many basements can be extremely moist, and if you have any issues whatsoever with basements ever becoming wet, I would not put a piano down there under any circumstances. If it’s impossible to treat the room with dehumidifiers and possibly even humidifiers, the next best thing is a Damp-Chaser system which sits under the piano or behind the piano on uprights. They provide stability by either heating up rods to take out humidity or even adding humidity from a water tank. This is a possible solution if treating the room is not practical.

To recap, the ideal environment is to put the piano in a room that is stable in regards to temperature and humidity. If you’re in a room that is not particularly stable, try to treat the room. And lastly, if you can’t do either of those, at least get a Damp-Chaser System. Once again, I hope this has been helpful and thank you for joining us! Robert Estrin at LivingPianos.com

The short answer is, yes, you do! I’m going to show you a couple of ways to possibly get around it. First of all, it depends on how big the piano is. If it’s a spinet piano and you have a pickup truck as well as some strong people plus a ramp, sure you can go for it. Be sure that you know how to properly secure a piano in a truck with straps as well as being able to wrap it in moving blankets properly. I would recommend this for pianos that are not expensive. The reality is, moving a piano is a very specialized skill. I have a video on the subject you can reference to see how it is done. https://livingpianos.com/general/how-to-move-a-piano-tips-for-moving-a-piano

When you see professional movers move a grand piano, they make it look easy because they know how to use leverage properly. There are also tools you need such as a skid board. Even with uprights, you want to put them on a flat board as well as a dolly. There are upright dollies that you can rent that strap around the piano. The thing is, pianos are extraordinarily heavy. I would not recommend for anyone who has ever had any back problems to move any piano under any circumstances, even moving a piano from one part of a room to another. You can do damage if you don’t know how to lift properly even if you have a strong back.

The secret is lifting with your knees. Never lift with your back and always lift with your legs while keeping your back straight or you can do damage almost instantly with a piano.

Even a spinet weighs several hundred pounds. It’s just not worth saving a few hundred bucks to risk destroying your back. So how can you possibly get around it? Fortunately, there is a way! If you have a move, particularly a long distance move, you can hire local movers on each end to load it onto a U-Haul or into a truck. You can avoid the expense of the mover going the entire trip, and that could save you quite a bit of money. You will need to rent or borrow the proper equipment to move a piano such as a skid board and 4 wheel, flat dolly made specifically for grand pianos. Grand pianos are moved on their flat side, and the skid board adds stability and protection for the piano.

My recommendation to you is to use a professional piano mover who specializes in moving only pianos. If you want to do it yourself with an upright, you must have strong people, a dolly and a truck with a ramp as well as the other essential supplies to protect your piano. Avoid moving a valuable piano yourself since anything can happen. For a fine piano, at least get professional piano movers to load and unload the piano on both ends. I hope this helps and thanks for joining us! Robert@LivingPianos.com

Are the keys on a spinet piano the same size as an upright or grand piano?
– Youtube Viewer

Yes, the keys of a spinet piano are the same as other upright or grand pianos. However, the keys on Asian pianos are slightly longer than keys on American pianos. Also, there are some late 19th century pianos which have keys which are slightly shorter still, particularly pianos which had been player pianos. Black keys have slightly different angles in the front on some older pianos as well. The edges of black keys are sometimes more rounded in older pianos because they get worn from playing. The spaces between white keys also become larger over time from wear as well.

Robert,
I enjoy your website and your videos. Thanks so much. My piano is a Baldwin acoustic upright and I have it tuned regularly. But now I have a new piano technician and he is suggesting I add a humidistat to the inside of the piano to regulate humidity at all times. He says this will cause me to not need regular tunings anymore. Does this make sense? I’ve never heard you speak of such a thing.

Sincerely,
Laura

Your tuner gave you some good pointers. In fact, stabilizing the soundboard will help with tuning stability particularly in environments with wide swings of humidity. Although I live in Southern California with a semi-arid climate, I have a Dampp-Chaser System on my concert grand which helps keep the tuning stable. However, all pianos will still require tuning on a regular basis, particularly if they are played a lot. The Dampp-Chaser System just prolongs the life of your tunings.

Mr. Estrin, I’ve really enjoyed your video about sight reading.

I’m willing to do whatever it takes to improve (I honestly relate to your story you gave in the video, my sight reading is basically non-existent compared with my level of playing, and it’s starting to hurt me now).

I practice close to 3 hours a day, and devote 1 hour to sight reading very basic pieces – will this help? Is there a more effective way?

– Niraj

Yes, I overcame my inability to sightread on a decent level. It came to me in an “Aha” moment. I describe in a video I produced on sightreading how when my father was performing the Tchaikovsky B-flat minor Concerto at Carnegie Hall, he asked me to accompany him on the 2nd piano for practice. This is when I could barely sightread at all! I kept my eyes on the music and counted and kept my hands moving to hit occasional right notes – but throughout the entire concerto, I never got lost! Since that day I have gotten more and more of the notes and can read anything.

I strongly recommend that you play with other musicians – because when you are playing with others, you absolutely must keep going. It’s almost impossible to discipline yourself to keep going when wrong notes are hit. You would be surprised at how appreciative instrumentals and singers are to have someone accompany them even if the accuracy is poor. What is vital is having a sensitivity to their timing and expression. Knowing what key you are in so that you have some basic framework of the piece will help you achieve decent results. As you read more your accuracy will improve.

Sometimes sightreading involves reducing the score to its skeletal framework and fleshing out the harmonic structure rather than actually reading every single detail. You have to make intelligent assumptions as to what the score is saying when it’s not possible to see absolutely everything on the fly.

As for practicing sightreading alone, choose the music you can play accurately at a slow tempo after playing through no more than 2 or 3 times. If you continually miss notes in your reading playing over again and again the mistakes will become ingrained which defeats the purpose. In choosing reading music on your level, your level will grow. Here is the video:

Robert,
What do reshaped hammers mean? I have seen this in some of the pianos you have on your site and am wondering as to what this means.
Sonja-

Good question! When hammers impact the strings, over time they develop deep grooves which are compacted felt. It creates a brittle tone. Hammers that are really worn can even flatten a bit. So, you can bring new life to hammers by reshaping them to the egg-shape which produces the best tone. Better than that, you get down to virgin felt which has a warmer sound. You can only reshape hammers so many times until you get to the wood – then you have to replace the hammers. These hammers have plenty of good felt to work with, so years down the line they can be reshaped again a number of times.

I may use this question and answer in my next video newsletter!

Robert,
Why isn’t the pin block made of metal? It does not need to transfer sound and metal would not have to be replaced.
– Kenneth

You ask a very good question. In fact, before the turn of the 20th century, Mason & Hamlin did indeed produce a limited number of upright and grand pianos that had metal, threaded pinblocks – not wood! These were referred to as “sidewinders” because the pins were parallel to the strings, not at right angles like in traditional pianos. They abandoned the design in a few short years and I am not aware of any other piano manufacturer utilizing metal pinblocks.

There are several benefits to wood pinblocks. First, the pins are threaded very finely. This allows for precise tuning. It is difficult to have metal machine screws with the geometry and strength to allow for the extreme fine tuning necessary in a piano. The fact is, there are over 20 tons of combined string tension in a piano. With a traditional pinblock when you restring the piano, you can use slightly larger pins and get excellent tuning stability. With a metal pinblock, the machine screws don’t allow for that possibility. Worse yet, if the metal breaks, it can be very difficult repairing. In traditional pianos with a wood pinblock, you can even replace the pinblock if necessary.

So, there are good reasons why nearly all pianos have had wood pinblocks for hundreds of years.